Getting there..

Its a long, long way from Haridwar to Gangotri - one holy (dirty, dusty, lowlands) place to another (clean, cool, mountains). We made the mistake of taking a bus - 9.5 hrs - from Haridwar to Uttar Kashi, and even the magnificent views climbing up and down the lower Himalayas could not make up for it.

Another 4 hrs from UK to Gangotri the next day, this time by jeep. The road (Aroad.JPG) followed the beautiful Bhagirathi, one of the main headwaters of the Ganga ABhag1.JPG . The ice-cold, snow-melt green river was to be our constant companion for 10 days of bus, road and walk.

Gangotri turned out to be a clean and pretty pilgrim town. The hustle is'nt too bad (Kingston and Delhi bus stand are much worse). AGang1.JPG

After 2 nights in Gangotri, we started our hike. Small is ill and on horseback, the rest of us walk saddled with our backpacks. The first day's trek was to Bhojbasa (14km), and for me, the most picturesque trek . The trail, always following the Bhagirathi, climbs up the valley which starts out narrow and then starts broadening out. The landscape is of steep mountain sides, points to the snow-capped Bhagirathi peaks, and passes through pine forest and yellow and orange-leaved silver birch. By the time we reach Bhojbasa, the landscape has started turning bleak and stark, all glacial outwash boulders and bedlam. We stay at Lal Baba's Ashram, and get a taste of the hotel management skills of these Babas of the Himalayas.